Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Marriage - Jaipur, Amber Fort, Taj Mahal

Most Indians get married and most marriages are arranged by the bride and groom's families. According to the 2001 census, only about 1% of the population over the age of 30 has never married and the divorce rate is only around 1%.

I hired drivers to take me from Delhi to Fatehpur Sikri, Agra and Jaipur. The casual conversations started out as usual between strangers in India, with inquiries on my marital status. Being unmarried (and unengaged) at my age is considered unusual and led to follow up questions on girlfriends. I confess to being vaguely untruthful, simply because it seemed to be the most expedient way to keep the conversation going on these car trips, with these drivers.


Friendship

Someone I know told me about a women he met in college. They would walk to classes together, talking. She always seemed to know just the right thing to say, words of understanding, encouragement. Concerns were expressed to his father, who defended his son, expressing complete confidence in the appropriateness of his conduct and intentions. My friend has not seen or spoken with the young woman since he graduated.


Romance

The fields on either side of the road to Agra were lush with the delicate yellow blooms of mustard plants. My driver pointed to a young well-dressed woman standing in a field, surrounded by the flowers, and a young man taking her photograph. "Romantic" we both said, and laughed.


Engagement

Parents try their best to find suitable matches for their children. Wikipedia provides the following list of factors they are most likely to consider:
  • Values and personal expectations: should match
  • Age and height: girl should generally be younger and shorter
  • Looks: should be acceptable to the other
  • Religion: should be same, preferably same sect
  • Mother tongue, caste: should be preferably same
  • Diet (veg/non-veg/alcohol/smoking): may differ only if acceptable to the other
  • Education: comparable educational levels or the boy should be more educated than the girl
  • Profession: the profession should be acceptable to the other
  • Financial: The boy's current and future financial situation should be acceptable to the girl.
  • Astrological signs/attributes: should be compatible, if the two families believe in it.
In modern India, websites exist to help parents with their search. Some recent additions include websites specializing in finding matches for the physically challenged, and even the transgendered, although the latter undoubtedly arrange their own matches without parental input.

From what I can tell, many young people have opportunities to meet their prospective matches prior to engagement, and may have a veto, at least in theory.

Engagements can last a few years, typically to allow the man to become more established in his career. It may be possible for both men and women to delay marriage by pursuing graduate studies, or a professional degree.


Weddings

These photos and video are from a lavish wedding that took place on the front lawn of the Taj Jai Mahal hotel in Jaipur. Along with a number of other westerners staying at the hotel, I formed part of the uninvited paparazzi for the event.

December is a popular month for weddings, as the climate has cooled somewhat, and the monsoons are usually finished. Hindu priests or astrologers may be consulted to determine an auspicious day and time for the ceremony. Weddings in north India usually take place in the evening. In south India, the reception may happen in the evening, but the ceremony is usually early in the morning, like at 6:00 AM. It has the advantage of being the coolest part of the day.

The venue was large, with several pavilions. 500 guests is not unusual. Some weddings have been known to have as many 2000 guests.



The groom arrived in an open car, a band accenting the grand entrance. The car is an update to the tradition of the groom arriving on a horse. "So that he can escape," remarked one of my drivers sardonically.



The bride and groom were seated with their families for a session with the photographer.



Fireworks marked the occasion.




Married life

Many Canadians might wonder what life would be like in an arranged marriage. There are many ways of looking at this, but one perspective is the experience of the children. I've met many people who describe a happy home life with their parents, grandparents, brothers and sisters. Many young adults need to move away from home for work, and a number of them have told me how much they miss their families, and how much they enjoy visits home.

I'm not endorsing arranged marriage, something I could never accept personally in my own life, but I am trying to appreciate some of the complexity, both positive and negative, that comes with the institution.


Married life among royalty

In the Mughal empire, polygamy was common among royalty. The Amber Fort just outside of Jaipur was also a palace for the local ruler and his twelve wives.

This part of the palace complex includes a central courtyard where wives and children would spend their days.



In the evenings, each wife would retire to her own apartment, adjoining the courtyard. Each apartment had a separate staircase to a hall leading to the king's quarters. Wives would wait; the king would decide which staircase he would descend.




Til death to us part

The Taj Mahal is perhaps one of the world's best known monuments to love. The Mughal emperor Shah Jahan built it as a mausoleum for his third, and most beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. She died in 1631, during the birth of their fourteenth child. Shah Jahan began construction of the Taj Mahal in 1632, completing the main building in 1648 and surrounding buildings in the following five years.

The site is on the banks of the Yamuna river, in the city of Agra. One may visit the Taj Mahal as a day trip from Delhi, but that means seeing it in the afternoon, when the crowds peak. Sunrise and sunset are also popular times for visits, but sunrise in December can be foggy, obscuring the view. My guide advised me to sleep in, and I saw it on a Tuesday morning at 9:00 AM. The sun was bright, the sky was clear and the site uncrowded.

The central monument is constructed of white marble, and surrounded by fountains, gardens and other buildings.



The mausoleum is symmetrical on four sides. It's four main minarets lean slightly out from centre, so that in case of an earthquake, they would collapse outward, rather than on the mausoleum.



Smaller minarets are richly decorated.



The entrances to the mausoleum are decorated with verses from the Koran, such as: "O Soul, thou art at rest. Return to the Lord at peace with Him, and He at peace with you."



Much of the Taj Mahal is adorned with bas reliefs, and inlaid with semi-precious stones such as cornelian (orange), malachite (dark green) and black onyx.



It's a cliché, but I couldn't help myself. Some people next to me saw what I was doing and asked my guide to take the same picture for them.



Centuries after its completion, the Taj Mahal is still a source of inspiration for those hoping to experience something of what Shah Jahan felt for Mumtaz Mahal.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Delhi Red Fort

I spent December 5, 2009 with Rajbir, my former co-worker and current friend. He is originally from Delhi, lived abroad for many years and is now back living here. We spent part of the day at the Red Fort.



Mughal Emporer Shahjahan built the Red Fort between 1638 and 1648. Various additions, demolitions and other changes have occured subsequently. The fort sits next to the Yamuna River, which fed the moat. National Geographic has a good map of the site. Red sandstone is the primary building material and gives the fort its name.

One of the first stops in the fort is a museum depicting martyrs to Indian independence. This is one of the more dramatic images on display. Kum. Maina was 13 years old when she was captured and tortured by the British in 1857, who were trying to learn from her the whereabouts of rebel leader Nana Sahib. She refused to cooperate and the British burned her alive.



The Diwan-I-Am, or hall of public audience, is where the emperor received the public. His throne sat on a white marble balcony, visible to the left.



The Diwan-I-Khas, or hall of private audience, is where the emperor received courtiers and state guests. It is clad entirely in marble, inlaid with semi-precious stones.



The Rang Mahal formed part of the emperor's seraglio. Water flowed through a channel in the floor, providing much needed cooling during the summer months. The channel is known as the Nahr-I-Behisht or Stream of Paradise.




Although these halls and living quarters appear quite bare now, during the time of the emperors they would have been luxuriously furnished with carpets, cushions, screens and all the accoutrements of comfortable living.

The Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, was built in 1659 by Aurangzeb, Shahjahan's successor. It was for the emperor's private use at that time, and it is currently closed to the public.



The Naqqar-Khana, or drum house, was used to play music at suitable times during the day. It now houses the fort's war museum.

The Natural Wonders of Hong Kong

My initial impression of Hong Kong was of a city filled with skyscrapers and crowded streets. However, I visited two areas that highlighted some of its natural beauty.

Walking down the street, it's possible to miss one of Kowloon Park's majestic trees shading the sidewalk. Inside, one finds a well-groomed and colourful oasis. I visited the park on December 2, 2009.



The rose garden was popular.



A variety of birds were kept either inside an aviary, like this rhinocerous hornbill, or outside, like the flamingos below.





There were tables where friends could play Chinese chess.





There is even a little bit of Canada in the park. This Tlinget blackfish totem pole is a gift from Canada to the people of Hong Kong on the occasion of Festival Canada in 1991.



Sai Kung is known as the back garden of Hong Kong. It includes the village of Sai Kung plus some smaller villages in a large natural area. On December 3, 2009, I hiked around Sai Kung with Hilda and Peter. To all my hiking friends, if you get a chance to go to Hong Kong, I would recommend trying to fit in a day at Sai Kung. There are miles of pathways with spectacular views. It's advisable to go with someone familiar with the trails.

The Sai Kung marina has a wide variety of boats, for fishing and pleasure. Dragon boats are visible in the foreground of the photo below.



Hong Kong is trying to preserve the natural setting of Sai Kung. Upon reaching a certain point on the road, visitors must leave their cars in a parking lot and take public transit to go farther into the area. To reach this village below, one must either walk or use a bicycle as there are no roads wide enough for a car.



The houses in this small village are popular with foreigners or others who like the tranquility, lower housing prices and who don't mind the 45-minute commute to downtown. Most of the homes retain traditional architectural features.



Residents keep a beautiful community garden.



Past this village, the trail opens up to vistas of some of the many hills that make up Hong Kong.



Most of the areas where we hiked are close to the sea. The spot below has coral reefs; the government has taken steps to protect them. Sea kayaks are available to rent for those who want to venture onto the water.



The water in some spots is very clean and clear.



Young mangrove trees and other plants help to filter runoff into this bay.



Some camping areas provide picnic tables, barbecue pits and washrooms, plus room for outdoor games, places for fishing and clean beaches.



This camper was drying fish outside his tent.



Visitors can choose paths that vary from smooth paved walkways to rugged and hilly trails. Wear hiking boots or good walking shoes.



Peter takes in the view.



We walked down another trail and eventually returned to sea level.



We then took a short walk to a nearby village to catch a bus back to our car. It was a fantastic day. Thank you Peter and Hilda!

A Video Christmas Card from Hong Kong

I took these photos in Hong Kong December 1 - 2, 2009 and made a video with music.



The city has a lot of Christmas displays now, and I loved the imagination of some of the designers. The Christmas tree is from 1881 Heritage on Salisbury Road. The fairies are from Harbour City and the remaining shots are from Times Square. I've heard that the characters at Times Square are based the illustrated novel by Jimmy Liao entitled either Turn Left, Turn Right, or A Chance of Sunshine. I think this is his website: http://www.jimmyspa.com/.

The music is "Balulalow", from Benjamin Britten's A Ceremony of Carols, Opus 28, 1942, performed by Kings College Choir, Cambridge, conducted by Stephen Cleobury. Balulalow means "lullaby" and the middle English lyrics are below.

O my deare hert, young Jesu sweit,

Prepare thy creddil in my spreit,

And I sall rock thee to my hert,

And never mair from thee depart.

But I sall praise thee evermoir

With sanges sweit unto thy gloir;

The knees of my heart sall I bow,

And sing that richt Balulalow!

Monday, December 7, 2009

Hong Kong at Night

These are photos I took of Hong Kong at night. You can double click any image to enlarge it.

My first batch of photos is from Pottinger Street, in the Central district on Hong Kong Island. This colourful market street is a flight of stairs with lots of cheap and cheerful items for sale. My friend Hilda and I shopped here December 1, 2009

One can buy seasonal items, like Christmas decorations.



Shoe shopaholics beware!



For the creative person, a ribbon shop offers a treasure chest of raw materials.



Some of you, I know, are intensely fond of feather boas, neon coloured wigs and rhinestone tiaras. If you're ever in Hong Kong, then you MUST come to this street. As Mae West said, too much of a good thing is wonderful!





Not far from Pottinger Street, I shot this video of some of the exuberant neon lights one finds all over Hong Kong.



On December 2, 2009, I took the Star Ferry from Kowloon to Hong Kong and back again with friends Linda and Celine.

This is a view of the Hong Kong side. The building with the white diagonal lines is the Bank of China, designed by I.M. Pei. Many of the skyscrapers along the harbour have been decorated with Christmas lights.



The IFC or International Financial Centre is currently the tallest building in Hong Kong, at 415 metres (1362 feet) and 88 stories. The architect is Cesar Pelli, who also designed the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.



This is a view of the Kowloon side.



On December 3, 2009, I visited the Peak with Henrietta and her husband Francis. The view is spectacular.



Hong Kong was preparing to host the East Asian Games December 5 - 13. These colourfully lit boats in the harbour were rehearsing for one of the upcoming celebrations of the event.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Giant Buddha

On December 1, 2009, I visited the Tian Tan Buddha and the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island with my friend Hilda. We took the cable car, a new attraction in Hong Kong that officially opened on November 9, 2006. It is 5.7 km long, and offers views of the city below, the Hong Kong International Airport (at least on a clear day) and the Tian Tan Buddha.





The cable car drops passengers off at the village of Ngong Ping. It's touristy in a pleasant, national park kind of way, with well-kept shops, restaurants and other facilities.



Fans of chinese opera would have fun looking at the masks in this colourful store.





I like the zen aesthetic sensibility that infuses the recent construction below. Can anyone guess the purpose of these buildings?



If you guessed "public washrooms" you're right!

The Buddha and monastery are a pilgrimage site. There are places where one can buy and light incense and offer prayers.




The Po Lin Monastery was founded in 1906 by three monks from the Jiangsu province in northeastern China.



These three Buddhas represent his past, present and future lives.



Pilgrims come to pray at the monastery.



Construction of the Tian Tan Buddha was completed on December 29, 1993. It is made of bronze and is 34 metres tall. Visitors climb 268 steps to reach the Buddha, but a small road is available for the handicapped.



The Buddha is seated on a lotus flower, symbolizing purity. His right hand is raised, signifying the removal of affliction, while the left hand rests open in his lap, signifying generosity.



Underneath the Buddha is a three-story pedestal, each containing a hall dedicated respectively to the universe, benevolent merit, and remembrance. The latter is said to contain a relic of the Buddha.



Facing the buddha are six devas, offering him flowers, incense, lamp, ointment, fruit and music, symbolizing charity, morality, patience, zeal, meditation and wisdom.

From left to right are offerings of fruit, a lamp and flowers, I think. I'm not completely confident that I've interpreted the sculptures correctly.



Below from left to right are, I believe, offerings of incense, ointment and music.



You may be wondering to yourself if this is the biggest Buddha in the world, or if you have seen bigger ones before. There seem to be a lot of very large ones around - Wikipedia has a list if you're interested.