Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Kanchipuram - temples, monkeys, silk weaving

On Sunday, July 19, 2009, I went with a couple of friends to the temple city of Kanchipuram, considered one of the seven sacred cities of India.

Our first stop was the shrine of Sri Varadaraja, which is dedicated to Vishnu. The tall towers of the shrine were encased in scaffolding and undergoing restoration at the time I visited.


I spent a lot of time in the mantapam on the grounds. It is known as a "hundred pillar" hall, for the intricately carved stone pillars that support it. The walls are open to the air. The mantapam is used for weddings, although none was performed while I was there, as this is considered an inauspicious month for weddings.








The pillars have many different carvings, including different incarnations of Vishnu. This is an image of Vishnu's second incarnation as Kurma, a turtle. In Hindu beliefs, the turtle represents a stage of evolution when the ability to breathe air and walk out of water developed. It is a symbol of perseverance.



We had a vegetarian lunch on the temple grounds, which included spicy yellow rice with peanuts, served on a banana leaf. This was the first time I followed the South Indian custom of eating with one's right hand, rather than using utensils. Sorry, I have no photos of this, but I did manage to get most of the food in my mouth and very little on my clothing or the ground.

Just outside this temple I saw my first "free" monkeys!



Another temple we visited was Ekambareswara. It is believed to have existed since before 600 C.E. and is dedicated to Shiva. Over the years, many additions have been made and it now covers an area of more than 12 hectares. It's towers, or gopurams, are among the highest in south India, rising 57 metres, or 188 feet.



Inside one of the temple buildings are magnificent painted sculptures that are put on carts during special festivals.
I'll try to get more information on the sculpture in this photo later, after I've had a chance to share it with my friends who were with me that day.



Within the grounds is an ancient mango tree. Its four main branches are said to represent the four Vedas (earliest Hindu scriptures). Each of the four main branches is reputed to bear fruit which tastes different from those of the other branches. Some childless women eat the fruit of this tree hoping to be blessed with children.



Ekambaraswara is a name for Shiva, and is believed to be derived partially from the word for mango. One story about this temple is that Shiva was deeply immersed in creating, preserving and destroying the universe when his consort Parvati, in a playful mood, covered his eyes. This temporarily disrupted the cycles of the universe and Shiva, considering this a serious matter, sent Parvati to earth to repent. She came to a single mango tree near the banks of the Kampa river and did penance. The temple is said to be built on the spot where Shiva forgave Parvati and reunited with her.

The day moved from the spiritual to the material plane when we took time to do a little shopping. Kanchipuram is renowned for the quality of its silk weaving, especially its saris, the traditional dress worn by Indian women. Much of the weaving is still done by hand, and the intricacy of the work can be astounding. We visited the Sree Swamy Silk House and observed some of the work in progress.
Here, a weaver is creating a black silk fabric with an intricate gold thread border.





I didn't buy any saris that day - I would have so few occasions to wear one :-) However, I did pick up a few smaller items, like this cushion cover.



Another wonderful day!

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